Madame X (pt. 1)
This is a project that has been bopping around my noggin for a few years, and I never really did anything with it beyond think wouldn't that be fun to make?
until NOW.
My birthday is coming up (oh no the dirty 30). There's a hip new bar open in LA, and it's Edwardian themed. There is a Victorian/steampunk bar up the street from it. There is an old fashioned cocktail class that night at yet another bar. A bar crawl in Victorian garb seemed appropriate.
I spent a lot of time staring at this portrait, trying to decide how exactly I wanted to pull this off, and what the less obvious construction elements of it would be. Clearly the main construction is a skirt and over-bodice. I believe the top of the bodice is a velvet wrap, as it lacks the shine of the lower 3/4ths of the gown and there's a hint of a wrinkle that looks like the edge of a new fabric. The date would suggest that it's somewhere in the natural form time frame, teetering into bustle. There is an obvious train at the back, and quite a bit of fabric that she's pulling up in the front. It must be quite a voluminous skirt for being so form-fitted.
Starting from the Inside - Out
Obviously there are some interesting challenges with a low cut, sleeveless and "strapless" gown that clearly needs a corset and petticoats. Additionally challenging for me personally is the fact that I can't go without some sort of support for the girls. Since the bodice isn't going to be providing that support over the bust line with straps or sleeves, the corset will have to do so. The center front is also fairly low - her sternum is on display - which means that corset can't go up too high in the center. I'm actually pretty excited to work on all that. I think it will have to go without a chemise under the corset, but I may be able to come up with something that attaches to the corset itself, maybe a little combination with removable straps?
Corset planning:
The sides need to be fairly high to allow for the drop in the center. The center front will also need to have that nice smooth curve down. I'm wondering if I want to get a spoon busk for it; I don't have a corset with one yet and it's a nice shape to have around...
Anyways, I've already got the main part cut out, I drafted mock-up of the bodice pattern roughly based on my Truly Victorian cuirass bodice pattern. I obviously removed the sleeves, and raised the armscye by about two inches. I reorganized the neckline into a sweetheart and brought the center front to a very deep V. I put the mock-up on over my black Victorian underbust, and fit it around the bust line. Lots of pins and fiddling later, I have a corset/bodice pattern.
I'll be using the same basic pattern for both of them, with some modifications to the corset. I'll be shrinking the corset center back pattern piece by about an inch to accommodate future usage. I'll also be lowering the top edge all around by 3/4" to avoid showing it under the dress, and bringing the center front at the bottom up to avoid a center point that sticks out too far. If I happen to get a spoon busk, this will of course not be as much of a problem.
Other Underpinnings:
Based on the portrait, there's quite a bit of volume at the hip, suggesting some padding. I'm leaning pretty natural form here, so I don't want to add too much, but I'm definitely going to make a little bum ruffle with some horse hair. I'll top that with a basic petticoat with some pleats at the back, to soften it and even out the volume.
And that's about as far as I've gotten for now. I'll update as things get completed!
Until next time~
X